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I have to dedicate a full blog post to the Merit Retrospect L’Extrait de Parfum*. It is a very unique fragrance, and I completely fell in love with it! It's MERIT's debut fragrance, and the nose behind it - Fanny Bal definitely didn't play it safe. They took a risk , and in my opinion it really paid off. Retrospect comes in a 30ml format and it is priced at £79.00. Now let's dive into it!
Retrospect comes is a luxury classic muted navy box. Very Merit, very elegant. The bottle is STUNNING! Gorgeous, heavy, custom glass shape, inspired by modernist jewellery. The glass is a dark grey, but it shapeshifts in certain light, going from dark to lighter and more see-through. I love looking at it. The gold lid blends seamlessly with the glass, and the shape sits comfortably in the palm of your hand. Beautiful, luxurious, elegant. A minimalists dream!
Retrospect is a L'Extrait, which means it is the highest concentration of fragrance, and is more potent and lasts longer on the skin. Retrospect has almost 30% of fragrance oil content, and was developed in Paris using the highest quality natural and safe synthetic extracts.
It is described as a rich, nuanced scent, that evolves throughout the day. Soft, clean notes open, followed by a subtle floral centre, before settling into a base of musk, vanilla, and moss for a warm, second-skin finish.
NOTES:
TOP: Bergamot, Pear, Ambrette, Aldehydes
HEART: Jasmine, Rose, Rosemary, Violet, Orris
BASE: Vanilla, Musk, Moss
Now let's talk about THE fragrance and my experience! As soon as I spray it, it hits me with a nostalgic vintage/old school makeup smell, like my grandmums lipstick. Some would hate it, but I LOVE IT, and cannot get enough of that first note. First time I sprayed it, I RAN to Fragrantica to read reviews to make sure I am not going insane with the lipstick smell, haha. I was right, I was not the only one who instantly thought - lipstick! I get subtle pear in the opening notes, but I think that the almost soapy Aldehydes and Ambrette take over. Can I get this in IV form, please?
After about 15 minutes, we get to experience more of the heart notes of subtle Jasmine, Rose, Rosemary, Violet and Orris. I love all of these notes, they are very feminine and soft and familiar. Again, I find it very old school, rich old lady in a department store kind of vibe, when you want to ask her what fragrance she is wearing, because it smells SOOO GOOD!
Finally, we get the base notes of sweet vanilla, warm musk and earthy moss. It's a gorgeous combination and it adds more depth to the fragrance. The sweetness of vanilla sits on the skin beautifully, while musk and moss balance it perfectly, making it more sophisticated and complex.
Overall, the fragrance settles as a powdery, slightly sweet, and woody floral on me, with a hint of old school makeup. It's very sophisticated, and not in your face, it's almost like the pheromone scents, but better and more understated. I can't get enough of it, and it makes me feel very nostalgic. Think old money, quiet luxury, but modern and refined. A 10/10 and a must have for any fragrance nerd! You simply have to try it!
Shop MERIT Retrospect HERE.
And speaking of fragrance nerds... Merit released a book called RETROSPECT, in collaboration with The Gentlewoman, a biannual fashion and style magazine based in London. It explores the art of fragrance, and its deep connection to nostalgia and memory. Featuring essays, images, and stories from Merit's collaborators, it’s a reflection on their individual experiences with fragrance — both past and present. Includes a deep dive on the history of the Retrospect fragrance notes, along with a profile on master perfumer Fanny Bal. Such an interesting read, and beautiful to look at as a coffee table book.
Shop MERIT Retrospect fragrance and book HERE.
*gifted/affiliate